Probably the most photographed monument in the world, the Eiffel Tower is amazing in the variety of faces it shows to the interested eye. It pops up between the spaces in buildings and it towers over Paris when seen from the rim of the hills surrounding the city. Most of all, it joins in the constant play of clouds and light, natural and artificial, which shape it and clothe it each day. This night, the clouds were low and the sulphurous light of a modern city emphasised the golden glow of its own illumination. It frames the crown-topped steeple of the American Church in Paris, where I was baptised and married.