Many years of living in Paris and a casual walk in a district I thought I know well cannot prevent this mysterious lady surprising me with yet more revelations of its discreet architectural gems. Here are two, which I stumbled on within a few minutes of each other only a few streets away from the Champs Elysées.

The Pagoda

Pagoda Gate

The Pagoda

I stumbled on a traditionally-styled Chinese house on the corner of Rue Rembrandt. It is one of several, such as the beautifully restored cinema in the 15th arrondissement. It seems like an escapee from the Forbidden City, but it can be found just behind Parc Monceau. I don’t include the oversized Chinese Restaurant by the river Seine in my list, since its commercial origin betrays its claim to genuineness, although, that said, I suppose a cinema is no less “fake”.

In any event, the house in rue Rembrandt so strictly conforms to its architectural antecedents, that it has a mysterious air of neglect, enhanced by its traditionally shuttered windows, dusty woodwork and the slightly neglected vegetation at its foot, all contrasting with the smart, Haussman-styled apartments surrounding it. To someone raised in a politically incorrect era of Sherlock Holmes and Lon Chaney movies, it breathes intrigue, secret societies and murky deeds, carried out with incredibly cunning techniques undreamt of outside of its secret world.

Apicious 1

Apicius 2

A Relais and Chateau

The second discovery is a total contrast. A long garden wall and nondescript gateway hide a gem of a town house, a member of the Relais et Chateaux luxury hotels association. Not for this haven the bustling sumptuousness of the  Parisian “Palaces” frequented by the Jet set. Rather like the “Pagoda”, I imagined its clients as characters straight out of Agatha Christie novels: a Belgian detective, Russian emigrés, European aristocrats and Ivy League professors, any of whom could be a target of the mysterious comings and goings at the Pagoda.

Unlikely imaginings aside, the transition from the street to the green calm of the hotel garden is astonishing. Mature trees provide black-dark shadow contrasting with the chalk coloured stone of the chateau. The Bhudda-like sculpture dominating the lawn breathes tranquility and suggests ages-old wisdom.  The discreet ambience of the entry suggests further pleasant discoveries behind. Oh to visit the central courtyard behind the main building, or the restaurant!

In fact the reality is just that and can be discovered on the venue’s website: http://www.restaurant-apicius.com

Technical

This was simple, enjoyable photography. Be surprised. Unpack camera. Attach lens. Mount on monopod and shoot.

Camera: Nikon D800

Lens: 60mm f2.8 G Prime

The Photographer’s Eye

This experience followed my application of a number of my image-seeking rules:

1.  Never leave home without a quality body and lens.

2.  Take different routes to or from regular appointments

3.  Every few hundred yards turn around and look back

4.  Be curious about unusual entrances

5.  Ask permission to enter and/or to photograph

6.  If you can’t stop to photograph, make a note to return

I’d be interested to know what yours are…?